Aitutaki Whales

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The main reason for us coming to Aitutaki was to swim with the whales and do a bit of diving. Within a couple of days we had managed both.

It’s humpback birthing season and the new babies are sticking close to their mamas. It didn’t take us long to find them. The boat inched us up and we slid into the water to see them up close. Unfortunately, they were skittish with us. As soon as we started moving towards them they would take off for a long deep dive. Other trips we’d hear about in the coming days would get to spend hours with them. It was still a great experience, though, and one we’ll try to replicate soon somewhere else. It really is impossible to grasp the size of these beasts without seeing them underwater.

Our fastest swimmer, Ouest, getting the best view.

Unfortunately for us cruisers, it is forbidden for us to take our own boats or dinghies outside of the harbor. If you want to visit the lagoon or any of its many fringing islets—all of which look stunning—you need to hire a boat.

A good view of the pass into Aitutaki’s harbor. That’s the only way inside the reef or out to the sea.

Up the mast again, running the halyard back through. It took four trips up and down to get it right. Fortunately, working in a dead calm harbor made the job easy. We should be back to flying the light wind sails again, and this time, hopefully, without chafing.

Restaurant choices are few here in Aitutaki. They did excel at one thing, though, and that was milkshakes. Store shelves were bare and the restaurant offerings would reflect that. We ordered vegetable spring rolls at one restaurant and received some sort of deep-fried ball with a package of frozen peas and carrots stuffed inside. It can be a long time between supply ships, and they don’t always arrive with the things people really need.

Break time between dives.

The divemaster was constantly on the hunt for invasive crown-of-thorns starfish.

Sea turtles wedge themselves into caves, overhangs, and coral in order to sleep. That’s why we find them in so many seemingly strange places.

Another quiet night in Aitutaki.

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10 Comments on “Aitutaki Whales”

      1. Why would they do that? I’m sure they are part of an ecological chain and serve a purpose – even if we don’t yet know what it is. Ugh.

  1. I wonder if that eyebolt is for a block, so the halyard comes straight down from the exit sheave and then leads fair as the sail hunts. If I follow, you’ve chafed through once at the exit sheave and once at the deadend, so you have more movement than you want in the three feet between them. I’m not a rigger but is there one around?

  2. Ernie is spot on…”proper” rigging of a kite halyard needs a swivel bolt after the exit from the mast.

    Will significantly decrease your chafe issue

    1. Do you think it was originally rigged with the halyard running through the eyebolt? I suppose with low stretch line there wouldn’t be much up and down movement.

  3. Beautiful!!! You guys are providing the absolute best upbringing and education for Ouest and Lowe! Kudos!

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