Mariner’s Cave

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We moved over to an anchorage near an area called the Coral Garden. We went over and anchored the dinghy in shallow water and then swam a couple hundred yards across a barren coral wasteland.

I began to think we were in the wrong place, but we eventually reached the line of breaking waves where the dead coral was only about two feet deep. We dove through the waves, trying not to get knocked any lower in the water where we’d scrape ourselves up, and came out the other side into what was clearly the actual Coral Garden. Beautiful spot. I later learned that a friend was scared off from here by a big shark. Unfortunately, we have yet to see a shark, or really anything much bigger than the palm of our hand here in Tonga. I’d have been thrilled to see that big shark. The coral and small fish were nice, though.

The family that lives on this little island in front of the anchorage cooks up a traditional Tongan feast every Saturday during cruising season. Complete with cute little suckling pig roasted over the fire. Really nice people and a great opportunity for all of us to benefit and learn a bit more about each other.

Looking back at the Coral Garden from up above. Dead coral to the right of the waves, garden to the left.

All the anchorages in Vava’u are spaced very close to each other, making it easy to just keep bouncing around from one place to another. We moved again, this time to get closer to Mariner’s Cave—an underwater cave we’d heard about. Well, not so much an underwater cave, as a cave with an underwater entrance. Only way to find it was to follow the GPS coordinates.

I dove through first to make sure it was safe—or safe enough, anyway. After confirming that, I went out and got the kids. They could only come one at a time as there was nowhere to tie the dinghy off outside, and it was too deep to anchor.

The cave itself wasn’t anything too spectacular, but it was fascinating inside. The swell would press in, and the cave would instantly fill with a foggy mist, but in the blink of an eye the mist would disappear again as the pressure of the swell receded. Our ears also felt like we were on a plane flying at 30,000 feet. Clearly this cave did not have a hole in the top to relieve the pressure.

Definitely a unique spot. Lowe even surprised me by wanting to go in a second time.

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3 Comments on “Mariner’s Cave”

  1. What other dishes besides the ” little pig” are served at the “traditional Tongan feast”?

  2. Tonga is indeed a wonderful place to cruise. We were lucky enough to be invited into one of their homes after attending a church service one Sunday. It was a great feast – poi cooked several ways, clams and the local delicacy – corned beef – among other things I can’t remember. Our trip was in 1991. My husband and two friends went into the cave too so it was fun to actually see your pictures from inside. He talked about the mist too. The people there were so welcoming and we loved every moment of our too short visit on the islands.

  3. Wonderful photos and stories. Thanks for sharing. Have noted the abundance of dead coral in many of your photos taken in the Pacific region. Was it as you found it on your first voyage? Have you formed any opinions about the situation? 60 years ago, when I was in the Caribbean quite a bit, the coral was alive and astounding in its beauty. About 15 years ago we visited the Cousteau Reserve in Guadeloupe . . . very, very sad. I would hate for anyone snorkeling in the area today to conclude it has always been that way.

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