Only by Land—Morelia

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I was thinking today about how different our travels are on land versus on the boat—how much easier it is to thoroughly explore a country by land. Yesterday we visited Tzintzuntza and today we are in Morelia. Two cities that would never be on the radar of a cruiser. I loved life on the boat (generally speaking), but one thing that always drove me nuts was how confined I felt. When I looked at a map my options were limited to dots (cities) located directly adjacent to blue (water). More specifically, dots with a safe bay in front of them. Sure you can sail to places you can’t get to over land, but the number of those places is dwarfed by the number of interesting places you can’t visit by sea. I continue to dig the life we lead in the bus—less drama, more exploring.

We took the bus in to Morelia this morning, settled in at a hotel across the street from the big Cathedral, and then just started wandering around town. The architecture here is heavy—everything is built like a fortress. The mood felt heavy too. Maybe it was because it was Monday, or maybe it was the overcast skies, but after a couple of hours Ali and I both admitted that we weren’t being charmed by Morelia. I really don’t know how to explain it, there just didn’t seem to be any joy on the streets.

First thing first—stop in at OXXO and buy a bag of rice.

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I love watching the kids squat like this. It’s such a little kid thing to do.

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Lowe was about due for a trim, and so was I, so when we spotted this peluqueria we decided to just get it over with.

After sitting down I thought, “Whoa boy, this isn’t going to end well.” The complete lack of running water was one tip off, the vast amount of junk and complete lack of floor space was another. But it’s only hair, and I’m always game to partake in a story that we can all laugh about afterwards.

Lowe, however, hasn’t reached that level of (im)maturity. He snuck off to Ali and said, “Mama, I don’t want to get my hair cut.”

I was a little bummed the barber didn’t offer me a shave while he was at it. And he didn’t even touch my nose hair. But somehow, in the end, the guy gave me a pretty decent cut. He lopped off about three pounds worth of hat hair, and it only cost me three bucks.

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13 Comments on “Only by Land—Morelia”

  1. Morelia didn’t do it for us either. The downtown core was in decent shape because it’s a registered UNESCO site, but get anywhere out of el centro and I’ve never seen so much graffiti in my life. I mean, they even graffiti the windows there!

    Not sure which way you’re heading, but have to recommend Zinapecuaro (there’s a waterpark beside the camping area) and then the hot springs at Los Azufres.

  2. They are having problems with the drug gangs fighting each other. Lots of bystanders getting in the way of the shooting. Life is getting hard down there. My computer guru’s husband is from there. They brought his family here. They are good people. Sad a few can have such a huge effect on a beautiful place.

    1. Pat, from a previous post.

      Dick Murdock May 2, 2015 at 4:02 pm
      I was wondering if you guys were paying attention to the news once you turned inland a few days ago. From what I’ve read, you are in the middle of one of the drug war areas of Mexico. I don’t think I’m that adventurous!

      Pat May 2, 2015 at 7:01 pm Reply
      We don’t pay any attention to the news ever.

  3. take care. my kids (mexican) school recently cancelled the grauduation trip (3ro de secundaria) to Morelos due to unrest.

  4. Ok, so you are obviously enjoying visiting the interior of Mexico, but is there anything about traveling on the boat that you miss or that was a little better than the bus?

    1. Oh, there is something intangible about cruising—I can’t put my finger on it exactly, but we all know it is there. But overall, purely from the point of view of traveling and visiting new places, the bus travel blows away cruising. Granted, I am talking about the point of view of traveling around Mexico. If we were in Florida you can be sure I wouldn’t feel the same way.

  5. When the economic downturn happened, I noticed all of my friends suddenly got long hair. Who pays for haircuts? That is so 2005. But, three bucks, you just can’t complain. Good cathedral, my word.

  6. I can’t believe that Ali doesn’t do the family hair cutting. It’s really easy. I’ve been cutting my husband’s hair for years. My son does his own, one hand-full at a time. It works well when he’s on the road.

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