It was 180 miles from Guadalajara to Patzcuaro, so we got an early start. Navigating out of the city was nerve-wracking. Driving around a city on outer highways here is nothing like it is in the States. Roads are confusingly marked, almost never include a number, and signs nearly always include the name of some obscure city a hundred miles away (but not necessarily the major city you are aiming for). I actually studied Google for an hour the night before to memorize the route. It was still a bit crazy and confusing, but we made it without a wrong turn. We did however manage to get pulled over.
“Placa?” the cop asked while pointing at our front bumper. We don’t have a license plate on the front, never have. We were stopped dozens of times in our VW for the same infraction, but never ticketed.
“No, no placa.” The cop just nodded, looking me over from the passenger seat of the pickup truck he was in.
“No cinturón?” Moving on from the license plate he switched to my seatbelt.
“Si, si,” I said, motioning to my lap. “Sesenta y seis.” A ’66 I explained while motioning to the missing shoulder strap.
He leaned over and explained to his partner, then leaned back and asked where we were going. I told him and he nodded, then got out of the truck and came around to the door to peek in and confirm that there was indeed a seatbelt. “Is everything okay?” he asked before shaking my hand and driving off.
Somehow this was the first time we’ve been pulled over in the bus. It felt like a daily occurrence in the VW bus, but so far with this big rig we’ve been cruising uncontested.
Five hundred pesos in tolls, and five hours later, we rolled into Patzcuaro. We’re the only ones in town it seems.
Right behind the bus on the grounds of the RV park is this adobe brick making operation. So brilliant in its simplicity. One guy chops up some straw, another guy dumps a few wheelbarrows full of dirt into shallow water, and a third guy mixes the mud to the right consistency by walking in circles with a horse. When the mix is right they add in the straw and keep on walking the horse in circles. Eventually the concoction is just right and they shovel it back into wheelbarrows, roll it up the hill, pour it into a brick shaped frame, remove the frame and leave it in the sun to dry. Good honest work.
Patzcuaro is a Pueblo Magico, meaning it’s been designated a “magical city” by Mexico’s tourism board. There are about eighty of these, and for some of them I think it is a bit of a stretch, but Patzcuaro seems to fit the bill nicely.
Waiting patiently for ice cream. The town’s specialty is an ice cream called Pasta, which is almond and cinnamon, and quite delicious. We grabbed that and went across the street to hang out and watch the goings-on in the Plaza Grande.
28 Comments on “Patzcuaro”
Ali & Pat, We have loved your blog for many years and just have to tell you again: Thank you for your superb photo journalism and truthful & sweet stories of your adventures. We no longer live on Magico in MX but through you, have re-kindled dreams.
About that troll reviewing your book… Grumpy old men don’t rule!
Thanks, Alan. It’s always nice to hear from you. Time to point south again? 🙂
Only in the Winter, in Tucson. We’re now in Bend, OR.
Pat, ignore the call of the HDR sorceress.
HDR seems to pull photography into the uncanny valley; that creepy sensation that something is artificial and very wrong.
Your photography has been consistently outstanding without the photographic equivalent of Auto-Tune.
Great post! I have to ask about the flying/falling dog in the 2 pictures with the statue and fountain. It’s not raining ’cause only dogs are falling!
Cheers!
I was wondering about the dog too… But most of all, I want to say thanks for letting me follow you around. Every time I see a new post from you, I know I’m in for a treat>
Great pictures. I grew up on a farm in Oregon and just love to see old tractors. They used to be everywhere. That looks like a 39-42 ford 9n.
That VW Thing in the last shot looks mint!
We’ve always loved those. We’ll own one someday I’m sure.
Wow, what a gorgeous city! I never traveled inland and always wanted to so now I am, thanks to you. The picture of the old woman at the market in incredible! I love it in B&W!
How did you get the photo of Lowe at the ice cream counter? I see you standing next to him. Are your arms really long enough to reach over the counter like that or did Ali take the picture and, if so, why isn’t Lowe looking at Mama behind the counter instead of doing the 50-yard stare? I’m also curious about the bear/dog behind the statue of the priest. So many questions and I’m only halfway through my fist cup of coffee.
Yes! Please explain the dog – is it a piñata? And is the bear really the dog b/c I don’t see a bear…
Thanks so much for your blog. Somewhat replaces my lack of grandkids.
The 50-yard stare comes on at the end of the day—he was just plain tired. Not too tired for ice cream, though.
Great memories for us to read about Patzcuaro. Twice on our travels through Mexico we have stayed there. Visiting the surrounding towns are also interesting. The story we heard was that to stop competition between towns, a Spanish magistrate of some kind designated each town to produce one major locale item. It is why some towns still specialize in copper some in woodworking etc. Also the famous butterfly nets of the fishing boats on the lake.
Happy to see that the Sexy Woman Boutique is still there 🙂
I thought it was funny that there are actually two of them in town. Doing a booming business apparently.
Some good memories as well from Patzcuaro, a great respite from the coast. I wish I would have known about the Pasta ice cream.
We were stopped several times in our VW bus as well and each was always a pleasant encounter that ended with a handshake (even though we were in the wrong every time)
All right, the dog. We were sitting there in the plaza and I saw this guy come along and toss his dog to his girlfriend. About a ten foot toss. She made the catch. They then started to walk across the plaza and I knew I’d better keep the camera on them. Sure enough, he took the dog and just launched it in the air like you would a baby, except about ten feet higher than you would a baby. He made the catch and they just continued on. Weird.
I was hoping you would say “What Dog?”
I actually had those two words typed in, but didn’t pull the trigger. 🙂
Absolutely love the photos in this post! Beautiful! You are truly talented with the camera. AND THAT DOG! I had to look multiple times at that photo. At first I thought you must have photoshopped him in. Then I saw the people standing below him waiting to catch him. Oh my! Crazy thing is the dog looks like he’s having a great time up in the sky. Lol! Awesome you were able to capture this moment and share it.
Pat & Ali, thanks for another great Bum blog post. I am falling in love with Mexico more and more every day from your words and pics. *Sigh*
I’ve owned two Things, a ’73 and a ’74. What I want now is a Iltis. 4×4 and TDI Doors still come off, they are convertibles, and a might bit little more modern (read crash worthy) than Typ 181 aka Thing aka Safari models
Hey Bums,
Loved loved loved that picture of Lowe at the ice cream counter, his hair is so cute! Thank you for you’re amazing photos and stories, you’re taking me away to Mexico in the middle of my uni finals and for that I am so grateful!
Keep rolling!
Thanks, Alice. Ali nailed it with that picture.
53 cents for 2.2 pounds of tomatoes!
And strawberries are going for $1.30 for 2.2 pounds.
I’ve lived in Patzcuaro for four years, and I love to take photos. However, yours are so much better, in a class of their own. You have made an art of storytelling with the camera.